Stuff It Taxidermy & Hunting Adventures

Safety & Etiquette

• Simply put, obey all laws and just use common sense.

  Remember, whether you agree with them or not, laws are in place for a reason. Not to harass you, but to protect you and others, personal property, wildlife, etc. A law is in place because, at some point, there has been somebody that has made a bad decision or has just been an idiot. Most states offer or even require a “Hunter’s Safety Course”. Some hunters don’t really need a course to be safe, but there are those that do, and you just can’t single people out.

  
  

  Here are a few key reminders:

  1. Be sure your firearms and equipment are in good working order.
  2. Check your safety and check it often. Don't be offended when if you hand somebody a gun, they check the safety. When I hand a gun to someone, I expect and even ask them to check it.
  3. Keep other hunter's locations in mind. Know where they are hunting, and practice safety and courtesy by giving them room and the same chance you want to harvest a trophy. If you are walking to meet somebody at their stand, whistle or give a little yell just to let them know you're coming...or wake up (ha) without being embarrassed.
  4. Know what is in the direction you are shooting (highways, roads, houses, livestock, other hunters, etc.)
  5. Be sure you know what you are shooting at!
  6. Do NOT take nor hunt with someone that takes "sound shots". Go ahead and laugh, but I've heard of this.
  7. Alcohol and loaded guns don't mix! There is a time to celebrate or enjoy a drink. While hunting or handling a loaded firearm is NOT the time.
  8. Finally, whether it's a boy or girl, teach a kit how to hunt, and how to be safe. Be a good example...kids want to be like mom or dad. So your example, as with anything else in life, will go a long way. A child may not remember what he or she got for the ninth birthday, but they will remember hunting experiences and time spent in the field hunting or fishing with the parent forever. Don't you??

Field Dressing Your Deer

• As soon as the Buck Fever (shaking) goes away, if you haven’t tagged your deer, DO IT NOW! It’s best to take your pictures before you begin field dressing your deer. Now, this is where you have to accept the fact that the fun is over for a little while!! Have a way to wash up when you’re finished, even if it’s just a bottle of water and some paper towels. You’ll be glad you did!

  
  

• False Hoods

  One of the most persistent beliefs among hunters is that you must bleed your deer by cutting the deer's throat as soon as you get to it. This is supposed to bleed off the deer's blood and make the meat taste better. Never cut a deer's throat. This has no positive effects. Once a deer is dead the heart no longer pumps blood. If the blood is not circulating then cutting the throat will not bleed any blood from the deer. It can, however, mess up a cape (the deer's hide around the head, neck and shoulders), if you decide to mount the deer. It opens the deer up to dirt in an area that would otherwise have been protected from dirt and bacteria. It is, in a word...USELESS.

  
  

  If you want to bleed your deer, you will first need to hang the deer (best done head down), and then make a cut at the lowest point so that gravity can feed the blood out of the deer. I don't do this myself. I get the blood out of the deer after the deer is home via soaking the meat in an ice chest for a few days. This has the added benefit of ageing the meat a bit before it is frozen.

  
  

  Another fallacy is that you must cut off the tarsal glands of the deer or the meat in that area will be ruined. This is nonsense. It didn't taint the meat while the deer was living and it will not taint it after the deer is dead. You don't want to touch the tarsal gland and then touch the meat. If the animal is not yet dead, simply shoot the animal again. It is very dangerous to approach a buck that is wounded from the front and down right stupid to try to cut its throat with a knife.

  
  

• Field Dressing

  A sharp knife is better than a dull knife when it comes to field dressing a buck. A sharp knife will actually reduce bad (unneeded) cuts and will make the entire procedure easier. Take your time when dressing a buck; mistakes due to haste will often require you to make a trip to the hospital to get stitches.

  
  

  It’s best to hang your deer up, but if you can’t, prop the animal on its back and begin field dressing by making a cut from just above the genitals up to the rib cage. You now have to make a choice. Some people cut through a number of the ribs in the rib cage to make it easier to reach up into the deer's chest. I find this unnecessary but it’s up to you. If you do plan to cut through some of the ribs you should do it of center to avoid the sternum. When you make this cut from just above the genital to the sternum take care not to cut too deep. You only want to cut through the hide and through the animal’s stomach muscle. If you go too deep you will puncture the deer's intestines and you will have to deal with the smell.

  
  

  NOTE: If you plan on having the deer mounted, don't cut any further up the belly than the sternum to save the cape.

  
  

  Now turn the deer on its side and allow the guts to fall out. They will require help from you by cutting away the fat that will hold the intestines in. This is usually at the top of the cavity in the area near the spine. Care must be taken to not puncture or break the deer's bladder. The bladder will be in the area where the cavity narrows down at the hips. I leave this part of the deer's intestines intact but many or most do not. If you plan on removing all of this then you must have a very sharp knife and must ream the deer out from the back, cutting around the anus and tying it off with string.

  
  

  Then, cut either forwards or backwards from the abdominal cavity to remove this entire area. Easier said than done. Care must be taken not to puncture anything here, this is where the deer droppings and urine are located. The deer's abdominal cavity is separated from the chest cavity by the diaphragm. This separates the lung and heart from the stomach and intestines. This must be cut out to remove all of the intestines.

  This is how it usually works for me, with the guts half in and half out. I cut the diaphragm away from the deer's chest cavity, and then reach as far up into the deer's chest as possible and grab the deer esophagus. With the other hand I carefully slide the knife into the deer's chest and work my knife up into the chest to cut the esophagus just above my other hand. After it is cut I simply pull the heart and lungs out and with it come the rest of the intestines.

  
  

  Wash up. Load in truck. Go home or to camp and prepare to cape your deer for mounting.

Shoulder Mount Skinning

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  Step 1

  With a sharp knife, slit the hide circling the body behind the shoulder at approximately the mid-way point of the rib cage behind the front legs. Slit the skin around the legs just above the knees. An additional slit will be needed from the back of the leg joining the body cut behind the legs. A good guide is to cut along the hair line where the white and brown hair meets. (Figure 2A and 2B).

  
  

  Step 2

  Peel the skin forward up to the ears and jaws exposing the head/neck junction. Cut into the neck approximately three inches down from this junction. Circle the neck cutting down the spinal column. After this cut is complete, grasp the antler bases and twist the head off the neck. This should allow the hide to be rolled up and put in a freezer until transported to the taxidermist. These cuts should allow ample hide for the taxidermist to work with in mounting. Remember, the taxidermist can cut off excess hide but he can't add what he doesn't have.

  
  

  Note: When field dressing a trophy to be mounted, don't cut into the brisket (chest) or neck area or along the back of the neck.

  
  

  If blood gets on the hide to be mounted, wash it off with snow or water as soon as possible. Also, avoid dragging the deer out of the woods with a rope. This is especially important for antelope. Antelope hides and hair are VERY VERY delicate. So do your best to protect it to help your taxidermist provide you a quality mount. Place it on a sled, rickshaw, or 4-wheeler. The rope, rocks, or a broken branch from a dead fall can easily damage the fur or puncture the hide. If you need to drag it out with a rope, attach the rope to the base of the antlers and drag your trophy carefully.

  
  

  Note: Because of the various diseases that wild game can transmit to humans, always use extreme caution when handling the carcass. Use rubber or latex gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water after handling.

Aging A Deer

• Tooth Identification Basics

  Whitetail and mule deer basically have two groups of teeth. The front teeth, or incisors, are used for collecting food. The back teeth or cheek teeth (molars and premolars) are used to chew and grind food. Between the incisors and molars is an open space along the jaw that has no teeth. (Note: In all photos, black line indicates the gum line.)

  
  

  

  
  
  

• Front Teeth (Incisors)

  These are the front teeth on a deer jaw. When a deer is 5-6 months old, the central two incisors are replaced. The rest of the front teeth, lateral incisors and canine teeth, are replaced during the 10th and 11th month. Unlike horses, deer do not have upper incisors.

  
  

  

  
  
  

• Cheek Teeth

  Premolars: The first three teeth on each side of the jaw are called premolars. Deer grow two sets of premolars. The first set appear in fawns and last until the deer is about 1-1/2 years old, when permanent adult premolars push out the baby premolar teeth. An important characteristic of the first set of premolars is that the third premolar has three crowns or cusps. When the permanent teeth come, all premolars have just two cusps.

  
  

  Molars: The fourth, fifth, and sixth cheek teeth are the molars. Deer only grow one set of molars. Generally, six-month-old deer have only one molar when they enter the fall hunting season. Therefore, six-month-old deer usually have only four cheek teeth. By 1-1/2 years of age, the second fall, and the second and third molars have erupted through the gum, though the last cusp of the third molar may still be below the gum line. All six molars and premolars are fully erupted by 2-1/2 years.

  
  

  The vast majority of deer in North Dakota are 2-1/2 years old or younger. To determine the age of animals in older age classes, we need to look more closely at tooth wear.

  
  

  

  
  

Field Aging

In General No single factor can be used to conclusively judge the age of a deer in the field. The picture at right illustrates the main indicators that should be evaluated overall to get a good estimate for a buck. The individual indicators will often vary a little from one region of Texas to the next, and sometimes even within an individual herd. If you can view known age bucks (ear tagged as fawns) in the area, you can quickly get a better read on your local herd's distinguishing characteristics.
Using the Rack as Indication of Age Notice that the rack (antlers) is not depicted above as an indicator. While some very general statements can be made about antler developmental characteristics at certain ages of a buck, the rack is the least reliable of any indicator. Remembering that these statements have MANY EXCEPTIONS, antlers generally gain mass as the buck ages, generally get darker as the buck ages, generally get wider as the buck ages, and will get any nontypical points in it's genetics once the buck has matured body wise. So, if a buck's antlers are wider than it's ears, dark in color, seem thick in the beam circumferences, and have some nontypical points, chances are good that the buck is mature. Because of the tooth wear, a post mature buck's rack may actually start getting smaller from year to year, but they usually keep the basal circumference, then it will thin out quickly from there.
	Fawn Many people think they could never mistake a buck fawn for a doe, but every year we have too many of those same folks wind up doing just that. On the head, the pedicels (nubs) are the most obvious clue. The ears will appear long, and the nose will appear short. The body will be smaller than the adult doe's, but is bigger than a doe fawn, so be careful. The legs look long and skinny, and the gait is usually frisky, often frolicking. The tarsal glands will be small and snow white. Does seldom travel alone, so give it a few minutes to see if more deer show up for comparison. I've seen many buck fawns by themselves.
1 and 1/2 Years At this age, a buck looks like a doe with antlers. There will usually be a slight dip in the back. They have a thin neck, no defined brisket, white tarsal glands, and the belly line has a distinct up turn near the hams. This gives it a greyhound racing dog sort of look. The legs still look very long, and the gait is still pretty frisky. They will make unwanted sexual advances on does, but are very timid in the presence of older bucks.
	2 and 1/2 Years At two and a half, the animal starts bulking up a tad, but just a tad. The neck will be bigger than a doe or yearling buck, but not much. The legs still look fairly long. The face looks long and the skin tight. Eyes are near perfectly round. Slightly developed brisket. The belly still has somewhat of an upturn near the hams. The tarsal gland may have some color to it. The rump appears squared off.
3 and 1/2 Years A three and a half year old buck reminds me of a racehorse. They are usually very lean muscle, and act ready for action. They may make rubs and scrapes if no bigger bucks are present. The nose lengthens and broadens, The head will look as long as it's going to look during their life. Eyes are still very round. The brisket is noticeable but not pronounced. Legs look the right length now. The belly line is flat, with just a little up turn at the rear. The tarsal gland will be dark in rut. Rump starts looking more rounded at times and squared off at times, depending on stance. Back line is flat.
	4 and 1/2 Years If fed well, a 4 and a half year old buck really starts looking like a buck. The giveaways now are the back and belly lines, and the head. On level ground, the back will have a slight dip only, and the belly will not hang below the chest line. The head skin will not look tight or loose, and the eyes aren't quite round anymore. When one of these bucks walk, they still pick their feet up pretty good, and the front knees won't look bent in when the deer is walking toward you. Rump is getting pretty round, and tarsal glands will be black when near or in rut. Nontypical points may start to show up now.
5 and 1/2 Years This one gets hard to pass up. Unless your herd is well managed, most bucks don't make it to this old, but you should actually let a buck get at least 6 before you hammer them to achieve maximum antler potential. Now, the eye will obviously not be round anymore, it starts to look squinty. The brisket is obvious where it joins the neck. The belly hangs even with the chest or starts to hang below it a bit. They start walking a bit knock kneed. They seem more deliberate in their actions. Skin on head starts looking a bit loose. Often have nontypical points.
	6 and 1/2 Years When a six year old walks out, it's usually pretty obvious who is boss. All other deer pay attention. He is on top of his game and knows it. Actions are very deliberate, like a big bull swaggering in. The front knees bend in to handle the weight of the neck and rack. The belly and back sags from years of fighting gravity. When relaxed, the ears tend to droop down a bit for the same reason. The rump is well rounded. The brisket obvious. Eyes are squinted; almost mean looking. With good nutrition, all nontypical points in his genes will pop out now. This is what you've waited for. TAKE HIM!
After 6 and 1/2 Years When a buck's teeth wear out, somewhere between 7 and 9 years old in normal habitat, antler and body conditions deteriorate. It is actually fairly easy to mistake a 9 year old deer for a 3 or 4 year old deer. The giveaway indicators though are the head, neck and rump. Also, muscle tone. The head will continue to have the loose skin, and the eyes will still be squinty, as in other mature bucks. The rump, however, will lose mass, not appearing rounded anymore. It won't be smoothly squared off like a young buck, either. It will be bony looking. The back may also be bony looking. Even the shoulders won't look so well muscled, and the neck certainly won't. I've noticed also that just like old men tend to get gray hair, an old buck tends to look lighter in color than other deer in the area. Not gray so much, but more of a lighter brown. Often, the hair also appears course.

Processing Your Deer

• For Donation

  Many of my customers are strictly trophy or management hunters. On the surface, this may not sound good, but some know there are less fortunate families in their area and will have the meat processed and donate to a family. Also, most states have a program in place (in Texas its “Hunter’s for the Hungry”) that many processors participate in. The processor will probably charge the hunter a minimal processing fee, and then they will process the game and get the meat to the right people. Here at Stuff it Taxidermy, our entire family are strong advocates of either of these programs, so if our customers want to participate and had rather, they can drop off the harvested animal with us, cover the fees, and we’ll get the meat to the right people. Believe me, there are those that can really use the help.

  
  

  Just as an aside, my doctor told me venison is one of the healthiest meats you can eat: no cholesterol and no fat.

  
  

• Using a Processor

  Another option is to take the animal to your favorite meat processor as soon as possible after the animal is harvested and field dressed. Most processors offer a variety of different meat cuts, sausages, jerky, etc. Then the processor will contact whichever taxidermist you choose for pick-up, and contact you when your meat is ready. This is by far the easiest way to get the meat to your freezer.

  
  

• Doing It Yourself

  The hunter also has the option of processing the meat themself. Here is a brief process on how I do it.

  
  

  I first cut out the backstrap and tenderloins and place in an ice chest. Then I cut the front legs free (no bones to cut) and place them in an ice chest. Then, I cut the hindquarters free with a knife. You can work a hindquarter free with just a knife if you work your way to the ball and socket joint that holds the hindquarters to the hips. Just work the point into this joint and work around the ball.

  
  

  Once both tendons are cut, the hindquarter will be free. Place any other meat such as the ribs and neck into the ice chest. Now place a bunch of ice in the ice chest with the meat. By this point, I am usually totally exhausted from all the work, so I am in no mood to begin butchering the deer. As a result, I usually wait a couple of days before I begin butchering.

  
  

  Each day you need to drain the water and add new ice. Cut the meat into your personal preference such as steaks, stew meat, chili, etc. and wrap in white butcher paper. Some people will use a thicker aluminum foil, but from our experience, the meat still will freezer burn a little easier in foil rather than white butcher paper.